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Yearnings
Tamiko NISHIMURA


As a student around 1968, I photographed the underground theatre group Joukyou Gekijo, the now-legendary "Téâtro de Situation." The first production I shot was Yui Shousetsu, and my eyes were transfixed by those enfants terribles of the stage, Kara Juro, Maro Akaji and Yotsuya Simon. Fujiwara Maki performing the streetwalker "Miss" Yozakura – "cherry blossom of the night" – effused such sheer presence I could only imagine that once offstage she slipped back through the total darkness to a riverbank hovel in the Edo period. Once, after I had clicked the shutter, she scolded from beyond the viewfinder, "That's no shot. You want my picture, you better haul yourself right up here." As if Yozakura was warning me then and there not to snap half-heartedly, or I wouldn¡Çt get any image at all.

At New Year's break, the winter before graduation, I travelled alone for the first time to Okinawa. This was before the islands reverted from the US to Japan. Wandering the back lanes of some town, I strayed into an old couple's yard. They plucked the sanshin and sang for me on their engawa stoop under the eaves. Treated me to lunch, too. Instant ramen over a bowl of white rice, a truly heartfelt gesture. I ate every last bit.

Later, walking in the sugarcane fields near Itoman at day's end, chewing on a sweet cane stalk, I was given a ride by a father and son driving home after the day¡Çs chores. They put me up for the night. It was a huge household of over 10 people, from infants to elders. I didn't understand a word of their Okinawan language, but one young woman who'd been working at a beauty parlour in "mainland" Japan and come home for New Year interpreted for me. She guided me around the neighbourhood and in the evening we walked along the beach. A little boy followed me around calling me "Tokyo Big Sis." I enjoyed talking with the woman late into the night. At Koza (now Okinawa City), a US-base town where locals, whites and blacks mingled, I drank cola at a pizza joint and realised, this isn't Japan.

After graduating, I did odd jobs and occasional magazine work. I took trips whenever pay for an article came in – mostly I headed north. As a child, I loved to spread out upon our tatami mat floor the dozens of postcards my father sent home from his business trips. I never tired of gazing at the snowscapes and festival scenes. I still have one postcard of the Sendai Tanabata festival, postmarked 1954. The rest have scattered now. Perhaps because of those fond images, I would head for Hokkaido, Tohoku and Hokuriku, over and over, to take in the changing seasons. I like the sea, so even if I ventured inland I always planned a route that would bring me out onto the coast. Among cities, I favoured towns with sea and hills like Hakodate and Otaru or, outside the northern country, cities like Kobe and Yokohama.

Once on a trip around eastern Hokkaido, I found myself on the broad flood plain of the Ishikari River and decided to go see where it flowed into the ocean. I could see the mouth of the river in the distance — what looked maybe 10 minutes away — but walk and walk as hard as I could it took me a good hour and a half to get there. Trudging through the thawing muddy snow left me exhausted, but full of memories.

At Abashiri, I fell into a snowbank and was engulfed — head to toe, camera and all — in white. Or gazing out to sea from an ice drift, I apparently worried the locals so much they came out to "rescue" me. Oyubari was also unforgettable, the old mining town so full of life and atmosphere. I even hiked up to the mine entrance, though not long after, they shut down operations and built a dam, reducing the place to a ghost town.

Now even the dam will be swallowed by a huge manmade lake formed by the Yubari Shuparo Dam, slated for completion in 2013. Towns are living things, I know; they change with the times, just as I change whenever I visit the same town. But for a town to completely disappear is really a pity.

Famous tourist spots never held any fascination for me, but I always stopped in at museums. I especially liked the Ainu costumes and artefacts I saw at a small ethnological museum on Mt. Hakodate; also the café midway up the slope. Arriving by night train in Aomori, then transferring straight to a ferry for Hakodate got me to the café a little past noon. I can picture the sunlight streaming into the shop, even at times of heavy snow, the perfect base for planning the rest of my trip. First opened in 1947 it became like my second home. But when I went back to Hakodate in 1997, they told me it had closed several years before.

I also went to Tsugaru on more than one occasion. On the overnight train from Ueno I made a point each time of reading Dazai Osamu's Tsugaru. Much of the scenery there remains as it was in his time. When I first got to Tappi, his words sprang to mind: "I thought I'd stuck my head in a chicken coop by mistake, but no it was Tappi village." The scenes before my eyes matched descriptions perfectly. Years later, when I saw Sesshu's Haboku Landscape at the Tokyo National Museum in Ueno, I couldn't help but think, "That's Tappi." Of course the famous ink painting is of a Chinese vista, but it reminded me so much of Honshu's northernmost extreme: the lone inn in the hills with its liquor banner beckons me as I finally arrive at the tip of the frozen north, to go in for a drink of hot saké.

In Kodomari, I believe it was, I saw a girl running down a snowy road at dusk, hurrying home, perhaps. I followed her with my camera, but she soon vanished. Left all alone in that snowscape, I felt strangely as if I'd wandered into another world. One trip, on arriving in Aomori from Tokyo, I gazed down on the snowbound tracks from the overpass and snapped one "painterly" frame, before having these second thoughts: "I'm sure to fall, taking photos like this."

Traveling alone you start answering your own questions. It feels good to be carefree and reckless. Often I'd find myself humming theme songs for my journeys, usually enka ballads, for some reason. My repertoire consisted of Takakura Ken's "Karajishi Botan," Mori Shin'ichi's "Minatomachi Blues" or other popular songs like "Blue Light Yokohama" and Kaji Meiko's "Uramibushi." All rather silly now that I think about it.

I met with my share of odd coincidences, too. Thinking suddenly to visit a friend's hometown in Iwate, I changed trains at Morioka and had just stepped off the local onto the platform at Okunakayama, when there she stood, her new infant in arms. The chance reunion saw her change plans to call on relatives in Morioka and instead take me home to her folks with her firstborn. Squirrels raced about the big walnut trees, the summer fields were in full bloom. I photographed my friend holding her baby with the family house as backdrop, then as I headed off to catch the next train north her mother loaded me up with fresh-cooked sweet corn. An unforeseen encounter had spun into a scene from a dream.

Once, stopping in Sendai to see a friend on my way back from Hokkaido, I went to a lovely public bath that was open from the morning, then spent ages sitting in a jazz café. I knew nothing about Sendai other than my postcard of the Tanabata festival, but it felt so nice and inviting, I almost wanted to live there. I visited Sendai several times thereafter, but that image stayed with me. I wonder what's become of it after the March 11th disaster last year.

In the early 1970s, each locale I visited had a fresh appeal, its own special charm. Maybe it was because of my youth, but those regions yet out of reach of the shinkansen "bullet train" had their own strong presence, without any urban trimmings.

Looking back over my images, I think about the existence of photography, how it speaks with the accumulations of the life-force continuing from time immemorial, of my own experiences, subconscious encounters, the memories I've lost, my subjects and the moments I snapped the shutter, the visions that took shape before me.... I guess I've been drawn to what lies beyond the union of seer and seen, wanting to give shape to things that fall apart soon after they're photographed. Or perhaps it's the ineffable attraction of the unseen. Only lately, very faintly, do these things occur to me.
September 10, 2012

Translation Alfred Birnbaum
English editing Mark Robinson

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